BORA BORA TO COOK ISLANDS
Many yachts arriving at Rarotonga say that this has been the hardest passage so far in the Pacific. This has always been an exciting passage for me. The wind usually is blowing at 25 knots from the south-east. So it is a beam reach in good winds and waves around 2 meters which sometimes are cresting and slopping aboard. There is a chance of a gale along this passage and also chance of complete calm for some days. There is also the chance of adverse winds from the north or west. The SPCZ (South Pacific Convergence Zone) comes right through here sometimes at this time of the year. Whenever I am in this area and right across to Tonga and Fiji I find lots of unpleasant weather. This seems to occur in short cycles often of around three days. Be prepared for rain and interesting conditions from now on until you reach New Zealand. The days of really relaxed and very easy sailing are behind you for this year.
Today I am writing on the second day out from Bora Bora. It is a great run after a great night last night. The GPS seems to be stuck on telling me that we are going at 7 knots. The crew is seasick. Sitting in the cockpit is wet. Conditions below are just bearable. Everything that can go crashing already has, so all is quiet now, just the noise of the bigger seas occasionally crashing against the hull and Pink Floyd is full volume on the stereo. There will be hot dogs for lunch. Was life ever better!
Then two nights after I wrote that we had our worst night so far in the Pacific. We crossed the SPCZ. We watched as the barometer fell from 1016 to 1010 and the sky darkened. There was heavy rain and strong winds for twelve hours. The wind came from all directions at various times. The lightning and thunder would strike fear into even the most experienced hearts. It cleared the next morning to a very rolly and windless day. These squalls occur when the South Pacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ) moves over you. The SPCZ can be dangerous if you are in the area where it connects with a low pressure system. Expect the unexpected OK.
The theory is that the weather systems here normally have a five or six day cycle: a high pressure centre will pass to the south, bringing moderate or strong easterly winds for five or six days, and then there will be a gap of five or so days before the next high pressure system arrives. Winds will be lighter and less predictable in this gap. If you can get a look at a weather chart it would pay to leave Bora Bora when you see the next high pressure system moving across from the west. You should then get good easterly winds and arrive before the squally weather which I struck.
In my experience I have usually found that the cycles move even faster and that makes it impossible to get across these passages between Bora Bora and Tonga without experiencing bad weather.
When “Tournesol” pulled in alongside me after a few days they had stories of 3 meter seas continually filling the cockpit and a knockdown to 70 degrees caused by a rogue wave. For them it was their roughest passage ever. “Tournesol” is an interesting boat. It is a husband and wife crew who are both legally blind. They have all sorts of modern optical equipment and they seem to be doing ok.
AVERAGE CONDITIONS EXPECTED
BORA BORA – COOK ISLANDS SEPTEMBER
RAROTONGA HARBOUR IN COOK ISLANDS
Brief Description; The Cook Islands consist of only 15 islands spread over half a million square miles. There are only a total of 18,500 inhabitants in the whole area. Cook Islands is a self-governing island group in free association with New Zealand. It is comprised of two groups of widely scattered islands located halfway between New Zealand and Hawaii, and to the west of American Samoa and the east of French Polynesia.
Most of these islands are volcanic, mountainous and relatively fertile, several are coral islands. Rarotonga is the main island and Avatiu is the capital. It is a beautiful island with high jungle covered mountain peaks falling down to clear turquoise lagoon with white sandy palm fringed beaches. The whole island is surrounded by fringing coral reefs.
Approach; There are no off lying reefs or islands. The island of Rarotonga has a high peak which is visible from more than twenty miles away. The white sandy beaches appear very clearly in the last miles before you see the harbour.
Nav Aids; There are entry lead lights at the back of the harbour. There are no other navigation aids at all.
Harbour Entry; There are no buoys marking the reef edge as you enter. It is not dangerous but you had better not lose your concentration with that reef only meters away on both sides. Try the harbour Master on channel 13. The office of the harbourmaster is straight ahead on the dock as you face into the harbour. Office hours may possibly be between 8 am and 4 pm. However, he is a good guy and, once you find him, he will handle all of the paper work. You will be charged NZ$25 per person, plus a modest daily charge per foot for your boat.
YACHTS IN RAROTONGA HARBOR
Tides; The tidal range in the harbour is one meter (three feet).
Docking; It is a small harbour and at this time of year there are plenty of yachts trying to crowd in. It is difficult. If you cannot decide where to go I suggest you should simply go alongside wherever possible on the commercial dock on your left side. Then walk up to the harbourmaster’s office and ask for advice.
Most yachts are Med-moored along the back wall of the harbour. When the wind swings around to the north as it occasionally does when the SPCZ affects the trade winds you will be very unhappy in this harbour. Keep your yacht well clear of the wall. Most yachties stay four meters away and use their dinghy to come and go.
There is a cyclone chain and a good permanent mooring in the harbour. If you Med moor stern to the quay you do need to find this mooring and secure your boat. When the swell enters the harbour you will be happy with the extra security. See diagram!
Facilities; There are no yacht spare parts or repairs available here. There are good hardware shops for general hardware. There is post office, internet, telephones and good shopping. There are good take-away shops around the harbour and the laundry is across the road. Gas bottles are filled just to the east of the harbour..
LOOKING OUT FROM RAROTONGA HARBOR.
AVERAGE WIND SPEED/ DIRECTION
AVERAGE CURRENT SPEED/DIRECTION
AVERAGE WAVE HEIGHT IN METRES (FEET)
AVERAGE AIR TEMPERATURE Degrees C (F)
AVERAGE SEA TEMPERATURE Degrees C (F)
AVERAGE ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE
AVERAGE PERCENT CHANCE OF GALES
AVERAGE PERCENT CHANCE OF CALMS
AVERAGE WIND SPEEDS LESS THAN 10 KNOTS
AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS TO RUN MOTOR
ANGLE OF BOAT TO WIND
AVERAGE BOAT SPEED
AVERAGE DAYS FOR PASSAGE
15 Knots @ 105 Degrees
0.6 Knot @ 270 Deg
2.00 (6.5)
25 (75)
25 (74)
1015 Millibars
4 %
4 %
1 DAYS
1 Days
90 Degrees from port bow
5.0 knots
4.5 Days
